If a 1 MΩ resistor does not produce the desired result, you could try lower values of resistance, but I would suggest that you do not go below 10 kΩ. (Of course, you would need to mount any such device according to "code".) You might be able to fix the "problem" by installing a high value resistor (say, 1 MΩ) in parallel with the load. The "power-supply" concerned will almost certainly incorporate diodes (which have a significant "breakdown" voltage) and capacitors.Ī complete analysis of the situation would involve knowledge of the "striking" voltage of the "neon" indicator concerned, the value of its series resistor, the breakdown voltage of any series diodes in the "load" and the value and placement in circuit of any associated capacitor - not an easy problem! However, not so for a LED, which has an associated "power-supply"/"electronic transformer" which is what is in series with the "neon" indicator and its limiting resistor when the switch(es) is/are "off". The PD-3PCL-WH minimum incandescent load is 25W there no legal way to wire an LUT-MLC to a plug-in dimmer Lamps failing may just be the stored age without energizing them. Granted I only did a toggle or two before I set it up so it could have just been coincidence but curious if that can have an affect on how much load needs to be on the circuit for it to work appropriately.The operation of the "neon" indicator lights when the switch is "off" depends upon having a relatively low resistance path from the Neutral to the Line - through the device which is to be switched "on".Ĭompared to the limiting resistor in series with the "neon" indicator, an incandescent lamp is a very low resistance. Just a little digging it does appear the Plumen lamp is dimmable however it is only 6.5W sooooo it may not work well. One other thing that isn't confirmed is that I noticed these issues after I setup the switch with the rest of my Luton Caseta wireless system. Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Red wire from wallĤ.Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Black wire from wall. Blue wire on switch => cap (no other attachments)ģ. Green wire on switch => copper ground wire in wallĢ. Does it matter which ends are connected to which on on the switch/LUT-MLC? My "circuit diagram" is as follows:ġ. My switch came with a LUT-MLC so I installed that in parallel but it doesn't appear to be having any effect. This seemed somewhat confirmed to me as I added my iPhone charger to the plug with my phone plugged in and the switch seemed to work just fine. Some quick internet research suggested that this was a load issue. At first it seemed to work fine but after a couple of toggles I noticed that sometimes the LED on the switch would flash red and the go back to a dull green. In that plug I have two floor lamps plugged in. It presents a simulated load to the dimmer to meet the mini- mum load requirements even when the actual load is smaller. When controlling one of these load types, a LUT-MLC may be required, especially at lower wattages. This device provides capability for certain Lutron dimmers to control low-wattage loads from 0 watts up to the dimmer’s minimum rating. The LUT-MLC load adapter is provided to help ensure proper operation of the switch with LED, CFL, fluorescent, and ELV lighting loads. Minimum load capacitor for Lutron digital dimmers. I installed the PD-5S-DV-WH switch on a wall switch that controls a plug. Catalog Code: LUT-MLC Stock Code: 0305-9373. Re-posting question with better formatting, didn't see the issue until after five minutes and couldn't edit Granted I only did a toggle or two before I set it up so it could have just been coincidence but curious if that can have an affect on how much load needs to be on the circuit for it to work appropriately. Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Red wire from wall 4.Black wire on switch => LUT-MLC and Black wire from wall. Blue wire on switch => cap (no other attachments) 3. Green wire on switch => copper ground wire in wall 2. Does it matter which ends are connected to which on on the switch/LUT-MLC? My "circuit diagram" is as follows: 1. I installed the PD-5S-DV-WH switch on a wall switch that controls a plug.
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